Complete Instructions: How to Clean and Care for UGG Fur Boots

Your UGG fur boots need help. Here are the complete instructions on how to clean and care for them properly. Stop ruining your boots. Read this.

Let’s start by observing the boot. Look at it. Sitting by the door. A sad, shapeless heap of matted fur and stained suede. It looks defeated. It looks like you’ve given up.

You paid good money for these things. You loved them when they were new—all plush foam and perfect, buttery suede. And then you lived. You walked through salty slush. You stood in the rain. You spilled coffee. You dripped grease from a slice of late-night pizza. Now, that boot is a fuzzy monument to your neglect. It’s a tragedy in sheepskin.

You’re here because you want to fix it. You’re looking for a magic button. A quick trick. There isn't one.

There is only the work.

This isn't a plea to save your boot's feelings. This is a manual. A set-by-step guide to doing the job you should have done months ago. You have a problem. We have the solution. It’s simple. It’s direct. It just requires you to do it.

Read this. Follow the instructions. Your boots will stop looking like a mistake.

Key Takeaways

Before you start, know this. If you read nothing else, read these seven points. This is the entire job, distilled.

• Always brush your boots with a suede brush before you get them wet.

• Never use hot water. Only cold water.

• Use a cleaner made for sheepskin. Dish soap will ruin them.

• Clean the entire boot, not just the stain. You're aiming for a uniform finish.

• Rinse with a damp sponge. Do not hold the boot under a running faucet.

• Air dry only. No sun, no heaters, no hair dryers. This will take 24-48 hours.

• When they are dry, you must protect them with a proper suede spray.

Before You Touch a Drop of Water: The Preparation

You don’t just jump in. You don't grab the boot and head for the sink. That’s how you get water spots and set stains. That’s how you turn a simple cleaning job into a funeral. You have to prepare the boot. You have to prepare the field.

Assess the Damage

First, you need to know what you’re fighting. Pick up the boot. Hold it in the light. What do you see?

Is it just surface dirt? Loose grime and dust? That's the easy fight.

Is it water-marked? Have you been caught in the rain, leaving those tell-tale, uneven dark patches? That’s a common problem.

Is it salt? The real winter killer. That chalky, white line that eats at the suede like a disease. This requires a specific battle plan.

Or is it grease? The dark, ugly spot from food or oil. This is the hardest enemy. This one needs a different approach entirely.

Look at the boot. Understand the problem. Then, and only then, you can move to the first action.

The All-Important Dry Brush

This is the first move. It is the only first move. Get a suede brush. If you don't have one, get one. A soft-bristled toothbrush can work in a pinch, but a real suede brush is the proper tool.

Your boot must be 100% dry. Do not try this if it’s even slightly damp.

Gently—and the word is gently—brush the entire surface of the boot. You are not scrubbing a pot. You are brushing a delicate animal hide. Brush in one direction. Go with the grain of the suede.

This does two things. First, it knocks off all the loose dirt, dust, and grime. If you skip this, you’re just turning that dirt into mud the second you add water. Second, it raises the "nap" of the suede. It lifts the tiny fibers, getting them ready for cleaning.

Don't saw back and forth. Don't press down like you're trying to start a fire. Just light, consistent strokes. All over the boot. This five-minute act separates the amateurs from the people who actually care about the result. Do not skip it.

The Main Cleaning: A Step-by-Step Manual

Once the boot is prepped, the real work begins. This is the core operation. Follow these steps. Do not change the order. Do not get creative.

Step 1: The Dampening

Get a clean bowl. Fill it with cold water. Not warm. Not hot. Cold.

Take a clean sponge or a light-colored cloth. Dip it in the water. Wring it out. You want it damp, not soaking wet.

Gently wipe down the entire boot. The entire boot. Yes, even the parts that don't look dirty. Why? Because if you only wet the stained part, you will get a water ring. You will fix the stain and create a new one. The goal is a uniform, damp surface. The suede should look slightly darker all over, but it should not be dripping.

Step 2: Applying the Cleaner

Now for the soap. We will cover which cleaner to use in a moment. For now, assume you have the right one—the UGG Cleaner & Conditioner or a similar product made for sheepskin.

Get your sponge damp again. Apply a small amount of the cleaner to the sponge. Do not, under any circumstances, pour the cleaner directly onto the boot. This will create a concentrated spot that will be impossible to get out.

Cleaner on the sponge. Now, gently scrub the boot. Use light, circular motions. Start at the top and work your way down. Be gentle. You are persuading the dirt to leave, not beating it into submission. The cleaner should create a light foam, not a bubble bath. Pay a little extra attention to the badly stained areas, but clean the whole boot.

Step 3: The Rinse

This is where most people fail. They leave soap in the suede.

Get a new bowl of clean, cold water. Get a new, clean sponge or cloth. Rinse your original sponge until it is completely free of soap.

Dampen the clean sponge. Wipe all the cleaner off the boot. Wipe. Rinse the sponge in the clean water. Wring it out. Wipe the boot again. Repeat this process. You will need to repeat it three, four, maybe five times. You must get all the residue off. If you leave soap behind, it will dry stiff and leave a pale, crusty film. Be patient. Be thorough.

Step 4: Drying and Reshaping

The boot is now clean, damp, and looks terrible. It's shapeless. This is normal.

You must now give it shape. Stuff the boot. Use plain paper towels, or butcher paper, or even crumpled-up plastic grocery bags. You can use old newspapers, but be warned—the ink can transfer to the inside of the boot. Stuff it firmly. You are recreating the shape of a foot. You are giving the boot its structure back.

Now, you wait.

Find a spot in your house. Away from all heat. Away from all sunlight. A cool, dry corner with good air circulation is perfect. Do not put them by a radiator. Do not put them in front of a fireplace. Do not, ever, use a hair dryer. Heat will shrink the suede, crack it, and melt the glue holding the sole.

You will let them sit for 24 hours. Maybe 48. They must be 100% bone dry before you do anything else. This is a test of patience. Do not fail it.

UGG Cleaning Products and Kits

You have options for tools. You can buy the official kit. You can make your own solution. But you cannot use the blue dish soap under your sink. You cannot use laundry detergent. Suede is skin. You are cleaning leather, not a t-shirt.

UGG Care Kit Review: Is It Worth Buying?

This is the question everyone asks. You paid $170 for the boots. Now they want another $30 for a little box with a brush and two small bottles. Is it a rip-off?

The short answer is no. It’s worth it.

Here’s why: there is no guesswork. The cleaner in that kit is a "Cleaner & Conditioner." It is chemically formulated to be the right pH for sheepskin. It cleans without stripping the natural oils from the hide. The "Protector" spray is also designed to work with this specific material.

You are buying peace of mind. You are buying the correct tool for the job. When you use the official kit, you know you are not using some harsh detergent that will dry out the suede, make it brittle, and turn your $170 boot into a cardboard shell. It’s the safe, smart, boring bet. And when it comes to this, boring is good. Buy the kit.

DIY UGG Cleaner: How to Make It at Home

Fine. You won't buy the kit. You're stubborn. You want to do it right now with what you have.

There is one—and only one—safe alternative for a light cleaning.

Go to your kitchen. Get plain white vinegar. Get a bowl. Mix one part white vinegar with one part cold water. A 50/50 solution.

This is your cleaner. Do not use apple cider vinegar. Do not use balsamic. Plain. White. Distilled. Vinegar.

Use this solution just as described in the steps above. Apply it to the damp sponge, not the boot. Clean in gentle circles. The vinegar is acidic enough to cut through light grime and salt stains, but gentle enough not to destroy the suede. It will smell like vinegar. This smell will fade completely as it dries. This is a good solution for light touch-ups. For a deep, heavy-duty clean, the official kit is still the better choice.

How to Clean Suede UGG Boots Without Damaging Them

This is not a product. This is a philosophy. The damage happens because of three things: harsh chemicals, too much water, and heat. You must avoid all three.

The material you are cleaning is fragile. Suede is the underside of the hide. It has no protective outer layer. It is porous. It stains if you look at it wrong.

To clean it without damage, you must be gentle. You must use a soft brush. You must use a damp sponge, not a soaking one. You must blot and wipe, never scrub. You must let it dry for two days in a dark corner.

The damage is done by impatience. People scrub too hard. They use a cleaner that is too strong. They get impatient with the drying and put the boot by a vent. That is what destroys the boot. The cleaning itself is easy. It’s the patience that’s hard.

UGG Stain Removal and Waterproofing

This is the specialized fight. This is triage for specific wounds. A general cleaning is good, but sometimes you have a specific enemy to defeat.

How to Get Salt Stains Out of UGG Boots

Winter leaves its mark. That crusty, white line around the boot is a salt deposit. It’s ugly and it’s corrosive.

The DIY white vinegar solution is the perfect weapon for this. Mix your 50/50 white vinegar and cold water. Take a clean cloth or a cotton ball. Dip it in the solution and wring it out.

Dab it only on the salt line. You are not scrubbing. You are dabbing. You are letting the vinegar dissolve the salt. You will see the white line fade. Once it's gone, take a separate, clean cloth dampened with only water and dab the area again to "rinse" the vinegar.

Then, you must clean the entire boot as described in the main cleaning section. If you only clean the salt spot, you will be left with a clean spot and a ring. The salt removal is step one. The full clean is step two.

Can You Waterproof UGG Boots? Complete Waterproofing Guide

Let's be perfectly clear. You cannot waterproof UGG boots.

You cannot. They are not rain boots. They are not snow boots. They are sheepskin. If you submerge them in water, your feet will get wet. The end.

What you can do is make them water-resistant. You can protect them. This is a crucial difference. A good protector spray will add a shield to the suede. When water hits it, it will bead up and roll off instead of soaking in immediately.

This gives you time. It gives you time to get out of the rain. It gives you time to grab a napkin and blot the spill. It does not give you permission to go puddle-jumping.

After your boots are 100% clean and 100% dry, take them outside or to a well-ventilated area. Shake the protector spray. Hold it six inches from the boot. Spray the entire boot evenly. Don't soak it. Just a good, even coat. Let it dry for 24 hours. This shield is your first and only line of defense.

The Best UGG Protector Spray for 2024

What spray should you buy?

The simplest answer is the UGG Protector Spray. It comes in the care kit. It's designed by the company for the product. It works. You cannot go wrong with it.

If you are looking for alternatives, the market has them. Scotchgard Suede & Nubuck Protector is a classic. It’s been around forever. It does the job. Crep Protect is another popular choice, known for its strong hydrophobic properties.

The most important thing is the label. The spray must say it is safe for "Suede and Sheepskin." Do not grab a can of "Heavy Duty Waterproofing" for tents. Those sprays contain silicones and other chemicals that will choke the suede, ruin the color, and destroy the boot's ability to breathe. Read the label. Get the right spray.

Caring for the Inside: The Forgotten Fur

You’ve focused on the outside. You’ve made the suede perfect. But you slide your foot in, and it’s a disaster. The fur is matted. There is an... aroma. You’ve only done half the job. The inside matters just as much.

Deodorizing the Sheepskin

Let’s talk about the smell. It happens. You’ve worn them. Your feet sweat. The sheepskin absorbs it. Now the boot has a funk.

The fix is simple. It's cheap. Go to your pantry and get the box of baking soda.

Pour a generous amount into each boot. A quarter-cup. A half-cup. It doesn't matter. Be generous. Then, shake the boot. Shake it hard. You want the powder to coat the entire inside—the footbed, the walls, everything.

Now, walk away. Let the boots sit overnight. For 12 hours. For 24. The baking soda is a miracle. It doesn't mask the odor; it absorbs it. It draws the moisture and the smell right out of the fur.

The next day, take the boots outside. Turn them upside down and clap the soles together. Get all the powder out. If some remains, use a vacuum cleaner attachment. The smell will be gone.

Reviving the Fluff

The fur inside was once a cloud. Now it’s a flat, matted carpet. This is especially true in the footbed.

You can bring it back. You just need to brush it.

Get a clean, wide-toothed comb. A simple plastic one. A soft-bristled pet brush—the kind for cats—also works perfectly.

Reach into the boot. Gently brush the sheepskin. You are just like you brushed the suede—lightly. You are teasing the fibers. You are breaking up the matted sections and fluffing them. Don't pull or rip. Just brush. The fur will separate. The loft will return. It won't be brand-new, but it will be a thousand times better.

The Long Sleep: How to Store Your UGGs

The season is over. You've cleaned your boots. They are dry. They are protected. Do not just throw them in the dark corner of your closet.

Storage is the final act of care.

First, they must be completely clean and completely dry. Storing a damp boot is an invitation for mold. Storing a dirty boot lets the stains set for good.

Second, they need to keep their shape. Stuff them one last time. Use crumpled paper. Or, better, get a pair of cedar shoe trees. The shoe trees will hold the shape perfectly and the cedar will absorb any lingering moisture or odor.

Third, put them in a safe place. The original box is perfect. A cloth shoe bag is also good. Do not store them in a plastic bin or a plastic bag. Plastic traps moisture and does not let the sheepskin breathe.

Put the box in a cool, dark, dry place. A closet shelf is ideal. Not a damp basement. Not a hot attic.

Conclusion

The boots are clean. The fur is fluffed. The suede is protected. They are stuffed and sitting in a box, waiting for the first cold day of next year.

You did it.

It wasn't magic. It wasn't a clever "hack." You just did the work. You followed the instructions. You used the right tools and you found some patience.

You looked at the sad, stained thing you had given up on, and you fixed it.

Now go outside. And for your own sake, try to watch where you're walking. The whole cycle is just waiting to begin again.